Trango Towers

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Name of Peak Trango Tower Location:Karakorum- Baltoro- Skardu
Elevation:6,286-M (20,623ft)Best Period:June – August 
Duration: 40 Days First Ascent:1977
Base Camp height4100-MRange: 

The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan, a district of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower, 6,286 m (20,608 ft). (Note: all elevations in this article are subject to significant uncertainty: it is not clear if they have ever been determined precisely, and sources vary.) The east face of the Great Trango Tower features the world’s greatest nearly vertical drop.

Trango (Nameless) Tower
Overall, the Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, the total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock. All of the routes are highly technical climbs.

Great Trango Tower
Great Trango was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route which started from the west side (Trango Glacier), and climbed a combination of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the upper South Face. The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, on a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians. These two climbs have been called “perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world.”
The easiest route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb.

Trango (Nameless) Tower
Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the legendary British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. It is now a popular ascent, albeit for the elite of the climbing community: there are at least eight separate routes to the summit.

One notable route is known as Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles album), first climbed on September 20, 1989, by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower and was climbed almost entirely free (in stages, using fixed ropes to return to a base each night). This helped inaugurate an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.


Itinerary for Trango Towers

Day-01 Islamabad
Arrive in Islamabad and transfer to the hotel. In the afternoon we enjoy a city tour of Rawalpindi and Islamabad.

Day-02  Islamabad- Chilas 
Drive to Chilas via the Babusar Pass 4,173m. Overnight at hotel

Babusar Pass is a high mountain pass at an elevation of 4.173 m (13,691 ft) above the sea level. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley, Pakistan. The pass connects the Kaghan Valley via the ThakNala with Chilas on the Karakoram Highway. It’s one of the famous hair pinned roads in the world.

Day-03 Chilas- Skardu
Drive to Skardu along with Indus River, 8-9hrs, 290km. Altitude 2,228m. Overnight at hotel
The rising of Indus stretches down to Baltistan valley from Tibet to Gilgit and down to the Arabian Sea, which cuts the Indian sub-continent from Asia; Baltistan valley is called a little Tibet in the North of Pakistan. Baltistan is situated at the last end of Himalaya, beside Deosai Plain and Satpara Lake. Baltistan the tourist destination of Mountains paradise where the world 2nd highest peak is K-2 (8611-m) and the other 8000m is Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I & II Likely 8068 to 8047m and there are many peaks 7750- 7800m. Its snowcapped peaks and long glaciers give you a spectacular view for climbers, trekkers, and travelers.

Day-04 Skardu- Askoli
Today we take the spectacular drive by jeeps to Askoli 6-7hrs, the starting point of our trek. Altitude 3,000m.

It is a spectacular drive from Skardu to Askoli; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto Chongo and Thongal.

Day-05 Askoli- Jhola
Trek to Jhola 6-7hrs 12.6km. Altitude 3,200m. Overnight in tents.
The early morning light finds us beginning our K2 expedition as the Loads are distributed among the porters. Walking along the Braldu River. It takes 3 to 4hrs from Askoli to Korofoung. After lunch, continue to trek to Jhola (3-4 hrs) you have a panoramic view of Bakhor Das peak 5809m) also mighty Biafo Glacier. Follow the riverside trail to the confluence of the Biafo and Dumordo rivers. Cross the formidable Domordo River at Jhola which flows from the Panmah glaciers.

Day-06 Jhola- Paiyu
Trek to Paiyu 6-7-hrs 16.6km Altitude 3,450m. Overnight in a tents
This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, with the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees beside the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak, where we saw ibex tracks and fox spore. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral and Trango Towers and left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2.

Day-07 Paiyu- BC
Trek to Trango Tower base camp 5-6hrs. Overnight in tents

Day-08/38 (31 days in base camp for climbing)

Day-39/41 (Trek down to Askoli). Overnight in tents

Day-42 Skardu: Drive back to Skardu 6-7hrs. Overnight at hotel

Day-43: Chilas: Drive back to Chilas 8-9hrs 290km. Overnight at hotel

Day-44: Islamabad: Drive to Islamabad via Babusar Pass 4,173m. Overnight at hotel

Day-45: Flyback: Transfer to Islamabad airport for return flight.