K-2 (8611M) WINTER EXPEDITION 2019/20

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  • 8000M

Description

 
Range:             Karakoram
Altitude:          8611m
Zone:               Permitted
Duration:         80 Days
 
 

Karakoram in Turkish means “Black Rubble”. In 1856 Capt. Montgomerie surveyed a number of peaks in the Baltoro region of the Karakoram from a distance of about 200km. He noted a cluster of high peaks and named them with the prefix “K” for Karakoram K1, K2 and K3. 

Again in 1861 the area was further surveyed by Col. Godwin Austin and recognized this rocky pyramid as K2 as the highest and measured it to be 8619m and then 8611m but the present official height of K2 stands as 8616m as per the scientific measures made from Concordia in 1987. Its local name is Chogori, which means Great Mountain or “King of Mountains”. 

The route to K2 goes through the famous Shigar Valley and Baltoro Glacier region of Baltistan. There are several high peaks, which are situated in this world’s largest temperate zone glacier. Only the highest or more prominent ones have been named or climbed. An incredible nineteen of these peaks in the Baltoro region tower over 7600m while four of them are 8000ers. 

K2, the second highest mountain in the world often known as Savage Mountain towers majestically above Concordia with the sweeping Godwin Austin Glacier offering an ice highway towards its Base Camp. 

There are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties. The first ascent route is known as the standard route or Abruzzi Ridge and used for more than any other route, via the Abruzzi Spur (Southeast Ridge). K2 was first attempted by Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909 but was first climbed by an Italian expedition on July 31, 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio and the two climbers who actually reached the top were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. Also on the expedition was the famous Italian climber Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Mahdi, who proved vital to the expedition’s success in that they carried oxygen to 26,600 feet (8,100 m) for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. Their dramatic bivouac in the open at that altitude wrote another chapter in the saga of Himalayan climbing. This spur begins at an altitude of 5,400 m/17,700 ft, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow slopes, ice fields, and some technical rock climbing on two famous features, “House’s Chimney” and the “Black Pyramid.” Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible “Shoulder”. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the “Bottleneck”, which places climbers dangerously close to hanging seracs. It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climber’s summitted the peak in 2002 and 2003 and most of the eleven people lost their lives due to the breaking of huge ice blocks from this cliff and often on their way down.


Schedule

EXPANDED ITINERARY

DAY 01

Islamabad

We pick up you at the airport and transfer to hotel, Serena OR Marriott in Islamabad. Welcome drinks will be serving at hotel on arrival. A couple of hours rests then serve lunch in the hotel. In the rest of time members will be visiting the local bazaar, dinner in the hotel or any outside good continental restaurant. Overnight at hotel

DAY 02

Islamabad

Morning session we arrange briefing in Alpine Club of Pakistan and completing the paper work formalities. As well also deposit helicopter emergency rescue. Lunch serve in the hotel.

 Afternoon session we will arrange press conference (if you interested).

DAY 03

Islamabad-Skardu

  1. Fly to Skardu PK 451- flight is subject to weather, upon arrival in Skardu and transfer to hotel K2 Motel OR Mashabrum
  2. In case of cancellation of flight (10-12 hrs) drive by air-condition coach to Chilas on Karakoram Highway, overnight at hotel Changrilla.

DAY 04

SKARDU

  1. Day free in Skardu
  2. If you are driving complete road journey (07-08 hrs) to Skardu. En route has good view of Nanga Parbat at junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus Rive. Overnight in hotel K2 Motel or in Mashabrum hotel Skardu

DAY05

SKARDU-ASKOLI

After all arrangements to be clear then we depart by jeeps from Skardu to Shigar valley across River Indus. From Shigar we continue our journey along Shigar and Braldu Rivers to Askoli, the last permanent inhabitance on our way to the great glaciers. Our camping days are starting from Askoli, overnight in tent. All meals here and from now on served by the camp staffs.

DAY 06

ASKOLI-JHULA

For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our expedition passing though a rock gap we cross the Biafu glacier.. Lunch at korophone. After lunch trek continue to Jhula. Cross Dumardo River Bridge and camp at rather dusty campsite surrounded by a few bushes with a side stream. Overnight in tent, all meals served by the camp staffs.

DAY 07

JHULA-PAIJU  

Resume trek along the Bardu River to a green Oasis under the shadow of Paiju peak. Paiju is Balti word which means “salt”. Since there are some rock salt deposit at the base of this peak, the Balti believe that the snow o the summit of Paiju peak is not snow but a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we have the first views of the very impressive Baltoro glacier. Overnight in tents. All meals served by the camp staffs.  

DAY 08

PAIJU

Paiju is a traditional rest spot before climbing on Baltoro glacier and the last place to find trees of the region. Today we provide for porters meat and ration (food). They prepare their food for next whole trip; tonight enjoy a bonfire with dancing and beating drums. Overnight at tent, all meals served by the camp staffs.

DAY 09

PAIJU-URODOKAS

Being trek ater an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju-Baltoro glaciers through crevasses and lunch below lilgo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliftss with fine view of rock spires. Cross the Khubuse torrent early morning and ramble over two glaciers moraines to reach the grassy slopes of Urdokas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho and Bial groups. Overnight in tents, all meals served by camp staffs

DAY 10

URDOKAS-GORO-II

A long walks on the icy Baltoro glacier. Traverse the Yermanandu glacier wihich flows down from Masherbrum and joins the Blaroto magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre and Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 11

GORO-II-CONCORDIA

After an early breakfast resume a long walk on the Baltoro glacier to a point called Concordia –a huge junction of Baltoro , Abruzzi and Godwin Austin glaciers at 4000 meters within a short raduus of 15 kilometers, stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters including 04 peaks above 8000m. A magnificent view offers a panorama of peaks nowhere to be found on earth. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 12

CONCORDIA-K2 BASE CAMP

Final day of trek to K2 base camp. A 4-6 hrs trek will bring you to the base of K2. Here you will say good bye to your approach porters for about 09 weeks. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 13-70

60 days climbing and acclimiztation period of K2

DAY 71

K2 BC –GORO-II

Trek back to Goro-II

Overnight camping, all meals served by camp staffs

DAY 72

GORO-II TO URDOKAS

Trek back to Urdokas. Overnight in tent, all meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 73

URDOKAS-PAIJU

Trek back to Paiju. Overnight in tent, all meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 74

PAIJU-JHULA

Trek back to Jhula, overnight in tent, all meals served by camp staffs.

DAY 75

JHULA-ASKOLI

Trek back to Askoli, overnight in tent, all meals served by camp staffs

DAY76-77

ASKOLI-SKARDU

Drive by Jeep to Skardu, transfer to hotel. Overnight in hotel

DAY 78

SKARDU-ISLAMABAD

Early morning transfer to airport and then fly back to Islamabad

Arrive in Islamabad airport and transfer to hotel.

DAY 79

ISLAMABAD

Reserve day

If flight does not operate due to bad weather then today fly back to Islamabad.

DAY 80

ISLAMABAD

Today in the morning session reporting in alpine club

Second session press conference (if you have interested) 

 Transfer to airport and fly back to home